Civil War Greatcoat
Military uniforms; American Civil War
Union infantry overcoat with shoulder cape and stand collar; made of new wool broadcloth, tightly woven in a plain weave, and heavily fulled (washed to prevent shrinkage and increase durability) with collar and brass buttons. This US Army Overcoat would have been produced sometime between 1851 and 1861. It has the name A.Harrison inside, which may be the name of the soldier that wore it, for at least part of its life in the US Civil War. <em>See <a href="https://fabricofwar.gitlab.io/coat/">Interactive Greatcoat</a></em>
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<p><a href="http://www.qmmuseum.lee.army.mil/main.html?n=1">US Army Quartermaster Museum </a><span lang="en-us">Ft. Lee, VA.<br /><br />Object QMR-85.10.03<br /><br /><br /></span></p>
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1851-1861
US Army Quartermaster Museum.Ft. Lee, VA.
Photograph by Stephen Harrison.
Colour photograph.
A Brass Button
Military uniforms
Standard US Army eagle button.
No letter appears on the shield to indicate a particular branch of service. The nap (brushed surface) of the woolen cloth has worn off with use and abrasion, revealing the warp and weft threads.
U.S. Army Quartermaster Museum, Ft. Lee, VA
1861-1865
US Army Quartermaster Museum.
Colour Photograph
A Button Hole
Wool uniforms worn by US Union soldiers in the American Civil War.
Greatcoat button hole created with silk twist thread in a standard buttonhole (or blanket) stitch, over a laid thread, to produce a solid line around the slit opening. Good workmanship meant closely spaced, even stitches that kept the thick, heavy woolen cloth from fraying with use.
US Army Quartermaster
US Army Quartermaster Museum
1861-1865
Trish FitzSimons
US Army Quartermaster Museum
photograph
The Collar
Wool uniforms worn by US Union soldiers in the American Civil War.
The stitching here is so even it almost looks like machine work, but is hand sewn. The double-layer, high standing collar protected a soldier from drafts, just as the elbow length cape added protection from wind and weather.
U.S. Army Quartermaster Museum, Ft. Lee, VA
1861-1865
Colour photograph
Box of US Wool Samples: US Quartermasters Museum
Military Uniforms
Standard Uniform Army Fabrics US Army: box of wool samples
US Quartermasters Museum, Fort Lee Virginia.
Wool Standards Sample, 1946: Grades 36 and 44
Wool Grades & Classing; Global Wool Trade
The 1926 standards distinguished 12 grades of wool by fiber diameter. By 1968 the U.S. classification had 16 grades, from Finer than grade 80s, down to Coarser than grade 36. This group of three samples shows the coarser, long staple grades. Notice that the one marked “36” is also labeled “Braid”. This suggests that this type of wool was best suited to manufacturing durable upholstery and garment trimmings, such as braids or cords.
1946
Colour photograph
Wool Standards Sample, 1946: Grades 56, 58, and 60
Wool Grades & Classing: Global Wool Trade
The 1926 standards distinguished 12 grades of wool by fiber diameter. By 1968 the U.S. classification had 16 grades, from Finer than grade 80s, down to Coarser than grade 36. This group of three samples shows the medium grades.
1946
Colour photograph
Wool Standards Sample, 1946: Grades 64, 70, and 80
Wool Grades & Classing: Global Wool Trade
Samples from the US Quartermasters ‘Official Standards Box’. The 1926 standards distinguished 12 grades of wool by fiber diameter. By 1968 the U.S. classification had 16 grades, from finer than grade 80s, down to coarser than grade 36. This group of three samples shows the finer grades.
US Quartermasters Museum, Ft Lee, Virginia.
1946
Colour photograph.
Official standards of the United States for grades of wool 1946
Wool Grades & Classing: Global Wool Trade
Wool Standards Box, 1946: US Department of Agriculture. Notice inside the cover of a large box that included Wool Grades 36&44, 56-60 and 64-80. Box top with signed certificate of standards, verifying samples of raw wool.
A sheep’s fleece could be graded into many qualities of wool fibers. Fibre diameter (fineness) was an important factor in what products the wool could be used to manufacture, and in its price. Standards boxes ensured that wool grades were clear to both sellers and buyers.
U.S. Army Quartermaster’s Museum
1946
Booklet of Standard Uniform Fabrics, US Army
Military Uniforms; Wool & War
Folder of sample uniform fabrics: War Department, Office of Quartermaster General, Washington D.C. Whether in peace or war, the world’s military forces required cloth of many different weights (tropical, medium, and heavy), types (flannel for shorts, twill for trousers, broadcloth for overcoats), and qualities (new wool, part shoddy, cotton mixed). Dress and field uniforms suffered very different conditions. And all these fabrics had to be woven, dyed, and finished to strict specifications.
U.S. Army Quartermaster Museum
1930
Colour photograph
Inside view: Standard Uniform Army Fabrics booklet US Army
Military Uniforms
US Quartermasters Museum, Fort Lee Virginia.
1930